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Gardening in the Rainy Zone
Western British Columbia, Oregon and Washington
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November 2006
- Vol 1, Issue 4
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Imagine a sunny winter day; a leafless, bare maple
tree stands in front of the waning sunlight in the
garden, its peeling bark glistening, translucent in
the sun. It’s Acer griseum, commonly called the
paper bark maple, a remarkable specimen tree for
almost any garden in any season.
The trifoliate leaf is a handsome feature of this
maple. The foliage turns bronze and red in autumn,
following its summer clothes of bluish-green leaves
with a complementary gray underneath. Its epithet,
griseum, means gray, so named after the hue of the
lower leaf surface. However, the exfoliating,
cinnamon-brown bark is the maple's most outstanding
feature.
The upright spreading maple with a rounded crown is
slow growing, but eventually reaches 30 feet tall in
about 50 years. There are variations in the way A.
griseum’s bark exfoliates, resulting in some trunks
possessing more visual charm. Even young tree trunks
peel their bark. Where possible, select your tree in
person and choose the most appealing one.
Site this specimen tree where you can appreciate the
bark year round. Do not plant within 15 feet of
power lines. To extend fall color in the garden, use
this maple because it is one of the last to turn color.
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Barking Up the Right Tree
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I love trees. There, I said it. I admit my love of
all things arboreal. How can one not love trees?
Their canopies offer respite from summer sun and
heat. Many trees’ flowers are as spectacular, and
in greater quantity, as perennials. Their limbs
provide shelter to birds that entertain us with song
and conduct insect patrol. Autumnal foliage adds to
our gardens’ glorious color crescendos. However, it
is in winter when trees that sport magnificent bark
strut their stuff and claim center stage—and rightly
so. While other plants quietly rest until spring,
trees add winter interest via bark color, pattern
and texture.
Of the 16 deciduous trees I’ve added since my
garden’s humble beginnings, eight have striking
bark; three were planted within the last six months.
Among the first plants I added were two fabulously
barked trees, paper bark maple (Acer griseum)
and coral bark maple (Acer palmatum
‘Sango-kaku’). They were expensive purchases, but
12 years later, that investment has rewarded me many
times over. Although paper bark maples grow slowly,
they exhibit their characteristic peeling bark at a
young age; time only increases their beauty. A
low-growing evergreen backdrop, such as Viburnum
davidii, provides a perfect foil to this bark
beauty. One caveat: plant this tree out of reach of
the casual wanderer, to reduce the temptation to
peel away strips of the cinnamon-colored bark.
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Chard and Kale in the Ornamental Garden
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Picking greens throughout the winter is thrilling,
especially since I grew up in eastern Washington,
where the only activity that resembled winter
gardening was trudging outside in my boots and down
jacket to dig carrots from beneath mounds of
snow-covered maple leaves. There’s nothing quite
like the satisfaction of eating a cold, crisp carrot
mid-winter, but imagine my surprise at being able to
garden year around in a maritime climate. Even with
the winter freezes, kale and chard are cold tolerant
and sweeter after a light frost. Here in the
Pacific NW, you can eat fresh vegetables from the
garden all winter long.
Many seed companies sell a variety of kales and
chards. Why not try the Wild Garden Kales, a mix of
Siberian kales in an array of color: light green,
purple, blue-green, and red. Or 'Bright Lights',
chard with its giant, burgundy-tinted green leaves
atop red, yellow, orange, or white stems. Not only
are these vegetables a treat to eat, they are also a
beautiful addition to both the ornamental and
vegetable garden. And what a healthy way to
brighten up any garden—growing colorful exotic
leaves that are higher in calcium than dairy products!
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• Once called the love apple, people in northern
Europe thought the exotic tomato, which came over
from the New World, was a danger to the chaste.
• Many gardeners use vinegar as an organic
alternative to herbicides. Is vinegar an effective
weed killer? Spraying a 100% concentration of
vinegar onto a weed makes it wither and turn brown
within a few days. The more diluted the
concentration, the less effective the spray is.
However, because vinegar is a contact poison, it
only harms the plant parts above ground and the
roots remain intact. A week or two later the weeds
resprout. You can spray new shoots again; keeping
the foliage from feeding the roots and eventually
the weed will die. Young weeds with undeveloped root
systems are easier to kill with one or more vinegar
applications. It may be faster and easier to remove
larger weeds from the garden by hand pulling than by
repeated applications of the spray. Although it is
feasible to kill weed roots by saturating the ground
around the plants with vinegar, it takes large
amounts to kill the parts below ground.
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Articles by Lisa Albert, Nancy Lou Canyon and Debra
Teachout-Teashon
Photos by Debra Teachout-Teashon
Last photo courtesy of All American Selections.
©2006 All rights reserved.
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