Interplanting
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DanH
Location: Washington, Puget Sound Corridor
Posted: Apr-23-2005 at 8:22pm
Folks, thanks again for the tips provided so far. I have another question for you now, regarding interplanting.
I'm following the suggestion to build a "weedless garden," i.e., a garden where I mow the vegetation, fertilize, cover over with wet newspaper, and then create beds and walking paths with compost and wood chips respectively.
I'm eager to maximize the production of each row, and I'm wondering if you can provide examples of combinations of crops that work well in an interplanting environment?
So far, I'm familiar with:
* Carrots with radishes
* Broccoli with lettuces
* The "three sisters" of corn, beans, and squash
* Tomatos with basil planted beneath them
Are there any other tried-and-true combinations of interplanting combinations I should be aware of, that will work here in the Puget Sound region? (I live in Lynnwood).
Thanks again, folks!
catplus
Location: Oregon, Willamette Valley
Posted: Apr-26-2005 at 5:59am
I've heard that plants that are good eating together are good growing together, that they keep each others pest away. Garlic, basil, oregano, tomatoes, for example.
I've tried basil with tomatoes, but I didn't leave much room and the basil got crowded out.
This year I have oregano planted over my garlic bulbs, and will see what happens. I've heard garlic are heavy feeders, but know that most herbs do not require good soil, so am hoping the oregano will not rob too much from the garlic.
I'd love to know more about this method from folks more experienced than I am.
gary
Location: Washington, Puget Sound Corridor
Posted: Apr-26-2005 at 9:39am
Dan,
I do put basil plants between my determinate tomato plants which are planted in front of the indeterminate varieties in a 4' wide east/west bed. You do have to control the deter. tomatoes with good cages and space the plants. I plant them in 24"x30" rectangles in the bed so two basils fit (one in front of the other) between each pair of tomatoes. The indeterminates are grown 'greenhouse style' from strings tied to an 6' high overhead supports (which also carries the plastic rain cover to protect from late blight).
As you said, lettuces fit well between cole family plants and are harvested before the cole covers the space.
I have only tried the 3 sisters once (at my mother's) with out much success. Many of the problems are detailed in an article from Dec. 5,2002 by Chris Smith in the Sea PI. You can read it at:
Growing squash, corn, & beans
Chris' first article, 10/24/2002, that led to his above reader's experience is here:
"Companion Planting"
Chris then followed up with his own views the next week, 12/12/2002. You can see that article at:
"A modest idea for the "three sisters" dilemma"
If you are reading Reich's Weedless Gardening, his hill system for corn should allow you to plant between the plants with lettuces or fall/winter coles.
With your 500 sq ft, I would personally leave out the corn and find a good farmers' market grower to provide your August/Sept. corn. (See my TOTW on corn for my potato/corn yield vs. Market cost comparisons.)
Gary
cjmiller
Location: Oregon, Willamette Valley
Posted: Apr-26-2005 at 2:21pm
I am an advocate of raised beds made from 6x16 cement blocks--because you can move them fairly easily and they dont rot and they provide warmth to the soil, I also like growing herbs in the centers--basil and shallots, garlic and cilantro seem to do very well, also, marigolds, short snap dragons, nasturtiums, etc. for additional color in the garden.
Carol
gary
Location: Washington, Puget Sound Corridor
Posted: Apr-26-2005 at 6:50pm
I updated my post above because I had missed Chris' 3rd article on the "Three Sisters" later in December 2002.
I'll stand by my original opinions but read all his articles and then we can discuss them.
Gardening for the Homebrewer: Grow and Process Plants for Making Beer, Wine, Gruit, Cider, Perry, and More
By co-authors Debbie Teashon (Rainy Side Gardeners) and Wendy Tweton