Active Topics Memberlist Search Help |
|
Register Login |
| Edible Gardening | |
Topic: dealing with cabbage moths |
|
| Author | Message | |
|
surfgator
Rainy Side Gardener
Joined: Jun-16-2007 Location: Washington, Puget Sound Island Posts: 16 |
![]() Topic: dealing with cabbage mothsPosted: May-27-2008 at 3:15pm |
|
|
I'm very proud of my cabbage and broccoli plants this year. Big, floppy fibrous leaves. But, the cabbage moths (small white?) are just starting to lay their eggs and I want to catch them before they start munching away. So far, I've tried:
1. floating row covers: it partially worked, but sometimes the critters still manage to get in there and it makes it more difficult to monitor my plants for other potential problems. Also, it hides the beauty of what I'm growing. 2. Pick eggs off plants: this is what I'm doing this year, but it's quite tedious and I'm afraid I'm losing the battle. How do you cope with cabbage moths? Thanks again for your comments and suggestions. This forum is a wonderful resource that has provided me with a ton of guidance on gardening over the last few years. -Jeff |
||
IP Logged |
||
|
greenmann
Rainy Side Gardener
Joined: Jan-13-2006 Location: Washington, Puget Sound Corridor Posts: 432 |
![]() Posted: May-27-2008 at 9:31pm |
|
|
um, you probably don't want to know this... but I purposely grow a kale that self seeds to attract them
|
||
IP Logged |
||
|
gary
Rainy Side Gardener
Joined: Jul-26-2003 Location: Washington, Puget Sound Corridor Posts: 1011 |
![]() Posted: May-28-2008 at 3:53am |
|
|
"Pick the eggs." Wait until you see how hard it is to find the green worms after they hatch.
I use Bacillus thuringiensis Kurstaki (Bt) spray, like Dipel. This organic spray is specific to caterpillars and gives them a stomach ache. The plants seem to build up some residual and I can usually get by with two sprays about 10-14 days apart. But that could just be a low point in the generation cycle. (I need to look that up at OR State's IPM website.) Later in the year, I normally add a Pyrethrins spray to the mix to give a little 'kick' to jet spraying aphids off the plants in late summer (I only grow coles for fall/winter food). This organic is toxic to bees and other beneficial bugs so be careful where you spray it. There are not many bees around the cabbage family until next spring. To both sprays, I usually add a kelp extract like Maxicrop. |
||
|
Gary
Olympia Sunset Zone 5, USDA Zone 8 |
||
IP Logged |
||
|
DebbieTT
Admin Group
Sunset zone 5, USDA zone 8 Joined: Jan-25-2003 Location: Washington, Kitsap Peninsula Posts: 4293 |
![]() Posted: May-28-2008 at 10:09am |
|
I'm not sure why you do this, or are you joking? You may not realize that the white butterflies are not native to our region? Twenty lashes to you for encouraging them. Be wary of veggie gardeners and pitchforks! If they become an angry mob . . .
|
||
|
When the going gets tough, the tough need a hug.
|
||
IP Logged |
||
|
surfgator
Rainy Side Gardener
Joined: Jun-16-2007 Location: Washington, Puget Sound Island Posts: 16 |
![]() Posted: May-28-2008 at 11:04am |
|
|
Thank you, Gary. The microbial spray solution in addition to egg picking sounds like the way I want to go.
-Jeff |
||
IP Logged |
||
|
greenmann
Rainy Side Gardener
Joined: Jan-13-2006 Location: Washington, Puget Sound Corridor Posts: 432 |
![]() Posted: May-28-2008 at 11:26pm |
|
It comes from desperation... to date, the cabbage white is the ONLY butterfly I have been able to successfully encourage in my garden, and along with the swallowtail, is the only butterfly I can count on flying in my garden each year. None of my immediate neighbors are growing veggies as far as I know (I really am in a difficult part of the Island to grow such things... too shady and cool) so I will brave those pitchforks :P And yes, I am VERY well aware it is not native. Neither is the Anna's Hummingbird, but I welcome them and plant for them, too. I never said I was a purist, or even necessarily rational about it
And since I have to post this... I will also post a caution about Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis), which is a bio-engineered bacterial parasite that is not nearly as targeted as most people assume it is. If you use it, please be careful of overspray as you would of ANY insecticide (or any other -cide for that matter). The one used for cabbage moths will affect ALL lepidoptera, including moths and butterflies of a very wide spectrum. It may serve to keep your cabbages worm free, but if you let it spray all over, you will be affecting caterpillars from inch worms to woolly bears and everything else lepidoptera. Please target it as narrowly as you can. Please note, I'm not saying don't use it, I'm trying to say don't ABUSE it. |
||
IP Logged |
||
|
DebbieTT
Admin Group
Sunset zone 5, USDA zone 8 Joined: Jan-25-2003 Location: Washington, Kitsap Peninsula Posts: 4293 |
![]() Posted: May-31-2008 at 11:27am |
|
|
I started a new discussion about the white butterfly, etc. over in the Flora and Fauna forum.
|
||
|
When the going gets tough, the tough need a hug.
|
||
IP Logged |
||
|
gary
Rainy Side Gardener
Joined: Jul-26-2003 Location: Washington, Puget Sound Corridor Posts: 1011 |
![]() Posted: Jun-01-2008 at 4:40am |
|
|
I should have mentioned above that I have had some success (in baseball parlance, I hit above .300) with a tennis racket. Greenman wouldn't care for it but it is a very specific weapon.
|
||
|
Gary
Olympia Sunset Zone 5, USDA Zone 8 |
||
IP Logged |
||
|
greenmann
Rainy Side Gardener
Joined: Jan-13-2006 Location: Washington, Puget Sound Corridor Posts: 432 |
![]() Posted: Jun-01-2008 at 2:55pm |
|
|
actually Gary, as pest eradication goes, I would prefer the tennis racket to a general spray of even an "organic" product like Bt. I dunno how effective a tennis racket would be in overall eradication of the pests, but at least it is specifically targeted!
And please make no mistake, I don't have a problem with the wise use as you described of something like Bt, more I am against the widespread use of it, as when the City of Seattle decided to overspray entire neighborhoods on the suspicion that Gypsy Moths might be in the area. Even simply spraying the whole vegetable patch I think should be avoided, as you will inevitably be attacking other lepidoptera in the spray zone that are not necessarily pests, and you have no reason to be persecuting. |
||
IP Logged |
||
|
gary
Rainy Side Gardener
Joined: Jul-26-2003 Location: Washington, Puget Sound Corridor Posts: 1011 |
![]() Posted: Jun-02-2008 at 3:25am |
|
|
I don't think that we are on different pages. I only use it on my cole crops. Further south of Olympia, I might use it on corn ear worm if we got a warm enough summer, like 1998, and I saw the moths in the patch at dusk. Thankfully, we don't get the Tomato Horn worm like CA does.
I don't know about your specific Seattle spray example but I do know that the State AG folks do set traps to determine the gypsy levels. I check their counts each year to see if they might be spraying my area again like they did once in the 1990's. I didn't have cabbage moth troubles for about 3 years after. Your comments about "attacking other" was enhanced when I read Territorial's new Winter catalog yesterday and noticed that they mentioned cabbage root maggots as targets of a Bt soaked wheat bran bait in addition to the cabbage worms. It's been there since at least 2004 but I hadn't picked up on it. |
||
|
Gary
Olympia Sunset Zone 5, USDA Zone 8 |
||
IP Logged |
||
|
greenmann
Rainy Side Gardener
Joined: Jan-13-2006 Location: Washington, Puget Sound Corridor Posts: 432 |
![]() Posted: Jun-02-2008 at 1:48pm |
|
|
I figured we were largely in agreement, I just wanted to underscore and clarify what I meant.
A few years back, someone found ONE gypsy moth laying eggs in a Seattle neighborhood. Just one. No others were found. The city's response was to spray a one mile radius around where the one moth was found (which was presumably eradicated already). I won't get into the media hysteria that surrounded it (complete with soccer moms wondering loudly if the "poison" was going to affect their children), but there it is. Kind of a sledge hammer approach to pest control, if ever I have seen it. I know in a vegetable garden its tempting to see all insects as pests, but even there, moths likely do more good than harm. Pollination of several crops such as cucerbits and solanum families is known to be at least partly do to moths. There may be other benefits we are totally unaware of. And besides, I just don't like needless killing of insects just because some chemical company tells me they are "pests". ANY past control should be as targeted as you can possibly make it. At least as far as I am concerned. |
||
IP Logged |
||
|
gary
Rainy Side Gardener
Joined: Jul-26-2003 Location: Washington, Puget Sound Corridor Posts: 1011 |
![]() Posted: Jun-03-2008 at 4:05am |
|
|
Grower experience and some research (what company is going to finance it?) has developed a belief by many that if a grower brings his soil up to a full complement of nutrients, insect and disease damage will approach nil.
A good short article by a NEW homesteader, Harvey Ussery speaks to this: " Insect Pests by Harvey Ussery" Hands-On Agronomy and The Biological Farmer by Neal Kinsey and Gary Zimmer respectively (both published by Acres USA) speak to this as part of their soil fertility systems. Both writers are disciple of Dr. Wm. Albrecht. Kinsey was lucking enough to take some classes and tutoring from him. Harvey is also an Albrecht soils user through his soil test consultant. Check his FULL website for lots of interesting short articles, well illustrated too, on his 2.5 acre homestead. Acres USA provides many archived articles on soil fertility, biological farming, etc. such as: "Rebuilding Soil Fertility" by Neal Kinsey The full list of articles can be browsed at: "Acres USA Article Archives" Now that I'm almost into summer vacation from my grandpa daycare job, I intend to put up some stuff I've learned (you can do a lot of reading with a 9 month old sleeping on your chest twice a day) on our soils and how many nutrients, minerals actually that we need here in the Maritime PNW. My granddaughter was 11 months old on Sunday & the sleep hours have reduced greatly. And the independent standing is at the stage that going on vacation next week for 2 months may not be soon enough to avoid her walking to get into things. Edited by gary - Jun-03-2008 at 4:06am |
||
|
Gary
Olympia Sunset Zone 5, USDA Zone 8 |
||
IP Logged |
||
|
AmyPNW
Rainy Side Gardener
Joined: Jul-23-2003 Location: Oregon, Greater Portland Metro Posts: 155 |
![]() Posted: Jun-05-2008 at 3:32pm |
|
|
I plan on losing some cole crops to root eaters if I don't use anything to deter them. But I don't lose them all. I agree that the healthiest ones seem to stay. I don't mind a little leaf damage. Even the broccoli that I have put the most vile of chemicals on (in the past) continues to have loopers hiding in the buds. So I just rinse them with hot water when I harvest. (What DO they use on the broccoli in the markets?) However I would certainly not want a horde of "pests" breeding and hanging around for any of them. The "pests" come and visit anyway.
Amy |
||
IP Logged |
||
Top of Page |
||
Forum Jump |
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |
|